Riding Waves to Environmental Consciousness
By Anthony R. Wilbur, CZM

Surfing, like many obsessions, requires a level of secrecy. Similar to legendary fishing holes that only the old timers know, surfing has many “secret spots.” Given that I believe secrets should be cherished and not publicized, this article is not going to explain where or when to surf. I will tell you that surfing in Massachusetts requires dedication and strong will. There are certainly those (rare) summer days when surfing is easy—conditions align with a nice swell, warm water, and great weather. These sessions leave core and seasonal surfers alike in a state of elation. But more common are extended periods of no waves, or swell accompanied by gales, bitterly cold water, and “ice cream headaches.” However, with experience and patience, surfers from the Commonwealth’s South Coast, Cape Cod, the Islands, South Shore, and North Shore can score incredible waves.

Surfing means different things to different people. Surfing is a summer activity to some. For others, surfing is a lifestyle. People become truly committed to surfing, almost addicted—watching weather patterns, fixating on the last, current, and next swell, and “jonesing” for the chance to experience the thrill of capturing energy in the ocean at a particular moment in time. When riding a wave, you are alone in this often busy world.

I sometimes forget about the beauty of surfing and dwell on the not-so positive aspects (crowds and bad attitudes in the lineup). Then an experience leads me back to why surfing is a big part of my life. For example, I headed to the beach last summer hoping to catch a few small, clean waves on a pleasant mid-week evening. There was a decent peak and no one out, except for one other guy. I was psyched and paddled out. The waves were not memorable—although the sandbar was setting up a nice wave breaking left and right—but the situation was special.

The other guy out was actually a young teen from the Berkshire Mountains in western feeling that anyone who has tried to paddle into any size wave can understand. Over the next hour or so, he became more confident and aggressive. He finally stood up on a little peak, slid down the face and rode to the beach. I heard his Pop cheer from the beach. His expression was indescribable—it was as if he just won the lottery or found a new way of life! His energy and stoke was a hands-down reminder of why I surf, and this moment no doubt changed his perspective on the ocean environment.

Human activities continue to impact the coast—from failing septic systems and stormwater flows to poorly planned coastal construction. Unfortunately, I encounter coastal pollution and see less-than-ideal shoreline development while surfing. Government agencies responsible for managing coastal resources, such as the Massachusetts Office of Coastal Zone Management, are often hindered by the lack of frequent observations to guide decision making. Surfers, many of whom have played in Massachusetts waters for a lifetime, have the potential to provide frequent and long-term observations that can support efforts to better understand, and subsequently better manage, our coastal resources, including surf spots. The occasional visitor can also assist by increasing personal understanding of coastal issues and sharing this knowledge.

There are successful national and international groups (e.g., Surfrider Foundation, www.surfrider.org) and regional programs, such as land trusts, working to protect our coastal environment. While many surfers participate in environmental initiatives, many others do not and are unaware of how their behavior influences the Earth, coast, and waves we treasure. More diligence and participation in conservation efforts are important—being aware and involved is part of the big picture of being a surfer.

Stewardship is a lifetime commitment. Long-term perspectives are not only important for environmental issues but also surfing. Enjoying the moment, while looking to the future, is an ethic of the surf lifestyle. There will be another set, another swell, another peak to split, another session to share with a kid out for the first time, another time to purely enjoy the ocean and waves—and there is always another opportunity to protect our Earth. Inspire others with the joy for nature and increased environmental consciousness that you obtain through surfing. The kid from the landlocked town in western Massachusetts hopefully entered this lifestyle of environmental awareness that summer evening.

So, next time you binge on a good session and you’re walking around in a buzz with tired shoulders and arms, a dazed smile and saltwater-induced red eyes, remember to give back to the ocean that brings you so much pleasure. Simple tasks like picking up trash (which is most likely recyclable) on your way back up the beach, supporting environmental organizations, and participating in the often complex and bureaucratic decision-making process will help protect the coast for future generations of surfers and non-surfers alike. Increase awareness! Share the waves!

Photograph (top) by Brandy M.M. Wilbur; bottom photograph by Eric Rydbeck